Surf
I love to surf. I grew up in Kihei, Hawaii on the island of Maui. It was a beautiful life. This was before there were any resorts or concrete there. Everyone hung out at “Charley Young Beach.” My friends and I would go next door to “The Cove” to surf. That all came crashing down when we moved to New York. I started surfing again, as an adult, when I moved to San Francisco in the early 90’s. Since then I have surfed Costa Rica, Mexico, France, Spain, Portugal, Italy, Morocco, Indonesia, and Australia.
Surfing teaches action. Swells are the pulse of the ocean. If you stop to think you miss it. Like dancing, you color, in, around, and about the pulse. If you go against it you look ugly and get pummeled. If you are with it you look beautiful, you feel free, and your movements are effortless.
Marianne Lu and I were quoted during our participation in a Surfrider Foundation sponsored Clean Water Day Paddle.
Here are some links to some surf trips that I was a part of. These are other peoples web sites, who actually took pictures. The first being Cameron Geiser’s album of Baja 2002. Then Cameron’s album of Bali 2002. Then there is Doug Dalton’s Sayulita 2002 pictures. I guess that all pictures were taken in 2002. I like this photo. There are some repeat photo’s on Aga Cena’s site.